A Quiet Day

It's early here, so not much has happened yet today, however we did complete the paperwork to file for our Immigrante - Rentista visas (the old FM2) yesterday afternoon. The package (including pictures that only a mother could love) will be taken to INM on Monday and we should be told later in the day when we can expect the visas to be issued. It has been taking about 7 days, so we should have them in plenty of time for our trip to Santa Fe for the opera.

This means that our car will be legal while we are out of the county.

Under our tourist visa the car needed to leave the county when we left. However, we're flying to Tijuana and then crossing the border on foot - no car involved. In the past, because the flight is within the country, the airline has not picked up our tourist visa, nor was it collected when we crossed the border (many people are not required to obtain a visa if they stay within the border area).

Nevertheless, our visa would be effectively cancelled when we left the country and without a valid visa the temporary import permit for the car would be cancelled, too.

So soon we'll be legal for an entire year at a time with the ability to come and go under the same visa. We can be out of the country a total of 18 months during the five-year period without having to start the process all over again. And at the end of five years we'll be able to apply for Immigrado status with no more annual renewals (and fees) required.

A Good Day in San Miguel

This has been a good day! First, the weather has cooperated: sunny and warm all day. Although there have been some clouds hanging around, they have just provided variety and have been very scenic. No piddly little clouds here in San Miguel, but big, robust ones.

Second, I was able to retrieve my credit card from the bookstore at Biblioteca. Biblioteca is the English/Spanish library in town supported by its members and various fundraising events, not the government. In addition to books, it sponsors many educational programs for Mexican youths and scholarships for worthy kids. The House & Garden tour we took on our first full week vacation in May was such an event as was the realtors’ trolley tour of several homes a week ago Wednesday. We’re not members yet, but will be soon. And their café serves Margaritas – good ones!

Yesterday when I noticed the card missing I figured the Tienda was the only place I used it (to buy a traditional Mexican cookbook). A call to the Biblioteca was fruitless (it was late in the day), but an email to the manager of La Tienda (the bookstore) was promptly answered even tho’ she was on holiday. This provided the first opportunity for Michael to drive the van through El Centro and he did just fine. It helps if you have some idea of where you’re going and which are the one-way streets – which we did.

Third, Miyake came through her surgery just fine. She’s downstairs in a crate in the living room with a couple of ice cubes for water, whimpering a bit occasionally, but the vet said she’d be just fine. She got a pain shot that should last about 72 hours – which is better than the meds given at our L.A. vet’s office. She'll get half rations when we return from dinner.

Fourth – I nearly forgot – we heard from our moving company that they are just waiting to be released by customs and then they’ll be on the road to San Miguel. Within the week should do it. Guess the customs brokers who must verify each load and set the duty are just overwhelmed with the backlog! So we can start our household helper’s duties on Saturday if she’s available. Maid/ housekeeper/ helper/ Margarita; I think we’ll just call her by name.

Remember the novels set in an earlier England where the upstairs maid was always ‘Rose’ regardless of what her name really was? The house was professionally cleaned before we arrived, but we’ve had two weeks to get it messy – even without much in the house.

Fifth, once Miyake is settled in, we’ll probably head downtown for dinner at La Posadita, our fave restaurant. It’s on a rooftop across the street from La Parroquia and on Thursday nights they have this great French singer, Myrna. A perfect evening in San Miguel.

Blue Skies!

Before everyone starts to believe that SMA is a rain-soaked town, I should report that Tuesday was wonderfully sunny. Although it began with gray skies, the clouds cleared, the sun came out, the world dried out, and we were able to get out of the house without drowning to run errands, do grocery shopping, and try a new restaurant for lunch.

Rather than spend the money on taxis (they’re inexpensive but using them all the time does mount up) we decided to drive. Consequently we took care of errands on the periphery of SMA. We’re only a few blocks away from the new glorieta near Bodega Aurrora on which work progresses, so connected there with the libramiento that skirts the town, goes up the hill, and connects with the glorieta at La Luciernega Mall, the city administration buildings, and the vast Tuesday Marketplace (another story).

The mall is home to the Soriano grocery store (remember Cabo’s?), Office Depot (one of our favorite stores), the Liverpool department store, a branch of our bank, our vet’s office, and several other shops and the MM Cinemas. There’s even a McDonald’s, but I’ve not tried them out - yet.

Did our shopping, visited the vet’s office, tried Chicago Style – the new restaurant in town – and trundled back home. Chicago Style was very good. With Michael having lived near (everything is relative, eh?) Chicago at one time, he has a fondness for Chicago-style pizza. They do have it right. We ordered slices of pizza, but were treated to cauliflower hors d’ouvres with a creamy Italian dipping sauce as well as slices from their Italian Beef sandwich (which I’ll order the next time). This is opening week for the restaurant and they’re soliciting comments on their various dishes with tastes all around and visits from the chef. All very reasonably priced, too. The menu isn’t extensive so they have time to focus on each dish they offer, a wise idea. They get two thumbs up.

While we’re getting more confident about driving around town (driving the cuotas was a snap), we still drive ‘around’ town, not 'through' town. The thought of taking the van through the little streets in Centro is more than daunting – suicidal seems a better description. Yes, the city busses travel those routes, but even they don’t travel every street, only the larger ones. Downtown it's simpler to walk.

Today – if the weather holds – we should be walking downtown with stops at our mail pick-up place, the TelCel store where we purchased our Mexican cell phones (we keep getting a recorded message whenever we place a call and have no idea what it’s telling us!), and the bookstore at La Biblioteca.

We finally broke down and sent our dirty clothes out to the laundry. All the wet weather had dissuaded us from doing the laundry ourselves. Last week we washed clothes in the kitchen sink and hung them out to dry on the roof top. It will be simpler to send them out. They were picked up yesterday and will be delivered today: washed, dried, and folded. We’ve been living with only the clothes we brought with us for the trip to SMA, adding a pair of khakis and a ‘nice’ shirt for each of us that we needed for the dinner to which we were invited the first week we were here.

I know it must seem that we’re unhealthily focused on the whereabouts of our household, but it’s hard to maintain a ‘What? Me worry?’ attitude for weeks as the weather results of Hurricane Alex hold our goods hostage. Our choice for seating is the inflatable mattress on the floor or the two office chairs we purchased on an earlier visit from Office Depot – oh, and the occasional straight-backed chair (read ‘uncomfortable’) that’s at the dining room table.

A Listero posted a link to the webcams for the bridges crossing the border at Laredo and they seem to be open again. Hope the roads south are soon repaired. I hear there’s a detour for one of the main roads. It’s not like L.A. around here: there’s one road from Point A to Point B and any back-up routes take you way outta your way.

Here's hoping we get our belongings in time to unpack and set them up before we leave for the Santa Fe Opera in August.

A grey day that doesn't stop us

Another grey, somewhat damp day, brightened by the ad hoc concert from our neighbor’s band. Actually they play pretty well, but oh, the volume!

Have I told you Mexico is all about noise? Church bells ringing at all hours, fireworks to celebrate practically anything, loud music, barking dogs - you name it, it’s there and it’s loud. Thought I was getting used to it, but guess it will need some more work on my part.

Went into town for a bite of lunch and some shopping. We’ve been trying to find a store that we stumbled upon when we were here in early May. Finally found it today! We now have some 'Mexican' shirts for the cruise in September/October.

Celebrated by having lunch at Los Milagros, then home for a rest before tonight’s dinner at friends. Need to leave in about 10 minutes so this will be short. I do hope they will have run through their repertoire by the time we return!

Sixteen days and waiting

As it turned out the weather cleared, cabin fever set in, and we went out for dinner last night. Taxied to El Jardin in Centro. After making a stop at the mail place (our mail is couriered from a Texas address), dropped into La Fugata for a 2-for-1 happy hour margarita. Nice drinks, though I didn’t care for the tequila they used - but it didn‘t stop me from drinking my 2x1 second drink - lovely setting, but meals were priced a bit on the high side (for down here).

Many of the buildings in Centro were once Spanish Colonial homes. Rooms facing the street separated the outside world from the rest of the house built around a central courtyard. When the homes were converted to business buildings the central courtyards often became restaurants with their second- or third-story open ceilings glassed in. Spacious and grand. La Fugata is one of those.

So, of course, we ended up at La Azotea again! Didn’t sit at our usual table as we were earlier than usual and the ‘front’ tables were unoccupied. When it started to sprinkle and the staff wasn’t moving very quickly to extend the awning, we moved to the very front under the canopy and had a splendid view to the west. The view included the workmen laying brick on the roof of a house a bit lower on the hill who didn't let the drizzle stop their work.

There was some sort of PR team that arrived for the Film Festival that began last night. The commentator, cameraman, and producer sat in the lounge area near us and occasionally got up to shoot a bit. I think we may be in one of them. Hope I was sitting up straight and not slumping or my mother will be turning over in her grave!

After a quick shopping trip this morning under gray skies, the weather again turned rainy and it’s still raining at 5 pm. Our trip included tableware and a few pots and pans as we were running out of plastic picnic things and ideas for microwaveable meals.

Let us say at this point that the local stores – including the large ones such as Bodega Aurora, Mega, and Sorriano do not stock frozen meals or entrees. There is, in fact, very little frozen food on offer. We did find some frozen veggies and French fries today but that was about it. Refrigerators are small here with smaller freezers and I’m not sure that that many people shop on a weekly basis, but rather daily. What need for frozen food is there if you are used to freshly prepared meals each day?

We also ran into one of our B&B hosts at Mega. Hope to pick up the mirrors, lights, and things we got from his partner when we were in SMA back in May.

Wondering what to do for dinner. Had thought of visiting La Postidita, but the weather would need to change rapidly for another rooftop dining experience. They have no awnings except over the bar. We had hoped to see the opening night presentation of the 200th anniversary of the revolutions celebration (Son et Lumiere on the face of La Parrochia), but may opt for something homemade. Would you believe refrigerator-case pizza a la Mexicana? The usual cheese and sauce with chorizo and chilies. Spicy! Hoping the two Zantac will forestall the effects of the pizza on my innards.

Still a bit wet out. We’ve already returned the Netflick Avatar we watched earlier this week. Next CD should arrive Monday. It was really a great movie. The usual good folk vs. the evil corporate world, but the CGI was spectacular. And the cast included Sigourney Weaver, of course.

Rain

Sitting here in the third floor studio on what passes as our bed (an inflatable mattress with a set of sheets and our newest acquisition: a down alternative comforter purchased at Costco yesterday. It’s Heaven! Warm, light, and fully covers the bed (my backside, too).

But back to today. It’s raining this morning. Not a hard rain, more of a concerted drizzle, but we’re all (Michael, Coca, Miyake, Fiyero, Chiquitita & I) snuggled in bed beneath or on top of the comforter sniffling with colds and watching a movie on the USA Channel. Buttered toast prepared on our borrowed Panini machine and a nap (for medicinal purposes, of course).

LATER

It’s now post-lunch (and post-nap) and another fabulous repast courtesy of the borrowed Panini press. Still raining, though a bit more steadily. So much for the ‘It only rains briefly once a day during the summer months.’ The door from the roof terrace into the studio is leaking a bit but not nearly as much as earlier this week when we had to dry out the bed sheets from the puddle of rain water. We’re using a couple of ‘snakes’ we found on the second floor terrace to persuade the rain water to go elsewhere (towards the drain, we hope). When we next have Pedro we’ll have to have him build up a lip at that doorway. If the lip extends under the flange at the bottom of the French doors I believe that we’ll lick that problem.

The rain has put a crimp in our plans to head out to Bodega Aurora for some necessities. We usually walk there and cab back home. If it’s still raining we’ll drive to and from the store. At least on the weekend work on the glorietta comes to a halt and traffic moves better.

More rain

Sitting in the studio on the third floor watching it rain. Nothing too tremendous today but lots of thunder! Always a favorite of mine since a kid in the mid-west. The number of times my mother came into our bedroom to find me propping my chin on the sill of an open window during an electrical storm...

Unlike yesterday when it rained on-and-off for most of the afternoon, the rain held off until we had returned from Celaya and deposited our friends at their home. I really like the rain: it freshens the air and makes one feel all cozy (assuming one is inside at the time). Yesterday’s rain poured down every time we left the trolley and headed into a home on the house tour. The lead realtor predicted the end of the rain every time we re-boarded the trolley and was wrong each and every time.

Our trip to Celaya was great: Wal-Mart, a pet supply store, Home Depot, and Costco. We knew that labor in Mexico is less expensive, but had heard that manufactured goods are not. How true! The replacement curtain rods (simple wooden poles) would have run $70+ per window. We may need to visit Home Depot’s lumber area and do the staining ourselves. ‘Replacement rods’ because it’s Mexico, where if you bought it, it’s yours to take with you when you leave your rented digs. Doesn’t matter whether it’s something that’s attached to the walls or not, as in California. So it’s not unusual to walk into a house/apartment and find no light fixtures, no towel rods, no bathroom mirrors, no curtains, no nuttin’! Just hope that, if we ever move, the things we’re adding will go with the new house. Or we just leave them behind for the next tenant.

After finishing our shopping at Costco we stopped at their food court and had hot dogs with condiments of the usual mustard, ketchup, and onions with the addition of mayonnaise and jalapeno peppers. Would you believe the customers even use ketchup and mayonnaise on their baked chicken wraps?!? Really.

Anyway, although it wasn’t Hebrew National franks (Mexico remembers the mad cow disease scare) they were quite tasty – nearly as good as the Polish sausages Costco sells in the states. And there was a constant line of folks who knew our friends stopping by our table and saying hello and being introduced to us. Our friends said once they met 5 different folks in Costco whom they knew. Only two stopped by our table today; we were introduced and chatted for a while to each. If we hang around our friends long enough, we’ll have met everyone who is anyone in SMA! (They were really nice people, too.)

Also, in explaining why we didn’t buy any food items at Costco [we have nothing but the small fridge and microwave that came with the house, some plastic plates and bowls, and plastic forks and spoons; hence we eat out a lot] they offered us the use of a toaster oven, Panini maker, and some Dijon (which I forgot to pick up). They are the same brands and models that are waiting to join us if the movers ever make it to SMA. We did buy a roasted chicken and some herb bread. Michael went to the local tienda after dinner and picked up some butter, I think, for the toast tomorrow morning.

On the moving front – it’s not moving. Received a photo today of the road between there and here – the road being engulfed with the river running next to it – with a promise that they would deliver things as soon as they could get through. Turns out that although some folks are able to cross at Laredo by car and make it to SMA, the bridge that commercial drivers must use is still somewhat out of commission and they must use the highway that’s under water. I’m really tired of being able to sit only in straight-backed chairs or on our inflatable mattress. Maybe we should go out for a drink tonight, too....

Shopping like at home

Today’s big adventure involves driving to a nearby city, Celaya, to shop at their Costco. We’ll probably visit the Home Depot, Sam’s Club, and a few other places while we’re at it. We’re taking along our friends who know the way. They gave up their car a couple of years ago and travel to Celaya by bus for shopping. Taking our van provides a simple way to get their kitty litter and other large packages home, though they have managed to do so on the bus. This is good for them and good for us.

There’s a larger Costco in Querétaro with a correspondingly larger selection of goods, but I think Celaya will be fine. Our shopping list is mostly dog kibble and household products. I’m sure they’ll have them – or one of the other stores. With luck it won’t decide to rain during the day, as it did yesterday. But that’s another story for another time.

Eating Adventures

Had one of your favorites, Diane - Coriander Soup – at lunch today. Sprinkled with a chiffonade of cilantro and tortilla chips, I couldn’t help but think of you. [The soup, by the way, was delicious: creamy and with a very light cilantro taste.]

We had found this small restaurant on Calle Laredo one morning searching for breakfast ($50mp, though our fruit juices were a bit fancier, so a bit more) and returned for their comida. For $70mp we enjoyed the soup, pork loin in a fresh orange sauce, a light dessert and a beer ($60mp without the beer). Included was their homemade rolls; they bake all their bread daily. There was a second soup choice and a second entrée from which to choose, but I’ve forgotten what they were.

Currently the Mexican peso is exchanging at about 11.5 – 12.5 to the dollar, so as you can see, the prices are more than reasonable. Many small businesses do not accept credit cards, much less dollars.

Today’s lunch was simpler: we went to Oliver’s Burgers. Tasty and both well-prepared and served. Mine could have used an extra dollop of BBQ sauce, but that’s quibbling. Fresh, crisp French fries. That should satisfy the urge for a burger & fries for a while.

We haven’t yet gotten over our habit of eating at what is considered an early hour here in Mexico, so the restaurants tend to be a bit empty when we arrive. Always good to see others arrive while we’re there. It’s summer and the troubles at the border are keeping some folks away. Restaurant business is a bit slow. We haven’t much choice as our household goods have yet to arrive – with no definite date set. Hurricane Alex and the resulting floods really gummed up the border crossings. Not even sure if our things have crossed the border yet; the roads south of the border are problematic, too.

Flying into Mexico skips that potential problem entirely. Wish we could have done that, but with our four dogs and the need for our van once here, it was out of the question.

Los Milagros and Tacos Don Felix

We spent Sunday walking to Bodega Aurora (a Mex-style WalMart store) to exchange a shaving mirror (the only mirror on our second floor at present) and pick up a few items before heading to Los Milagros in Centro to listen to Jack & Frances play while munching on crudités (jicama, carrots & zucchini sticks dusted with dried peppers) and their wonderful queso fundido (we chose chorizo and sautéed peppers as toppings to their three-cheese base). Jack & Frances remembered us from the only other time we caught them on an earlier visit.

On Saturday for dinner we tried out another restaurant here in San Raphael: Tacos Don Felix. Thought it would be a glorified taco stand with seating, but found it to be a semi-elegant setting with excellent service and reasonably-priced dishes. Started with an appetizer of BBQ baby back ribs. Michael chose the tilapia stuffed with shrimp as his entree; I chose the 7-Taco plate, each taco filled with a different filling including one with the mushrooms that grow on corn cobs in a rich, dark sauce. Stuffed (that’s me)!

Don Felix is only 6 or 7 blocks from our house and we thought we could simply walk there, but took a wrong turn (we are still working with only the laptop, no printer for maps, and faulty memories) and eventually found it quite some time later. It's only 2 or 3 blocks beyond our friends' home. Took the correct route home; much faster!